The one I have on CD is with Corelli and Sutherland under the baton of Bonynge.
The link is to a version that has great critical reviews with Bjoerling who is regarded by more than a few people out there as the greatest tenor of all time and it also has some of the great deep voices on it:
Thanks for the Bjoerling link.
...I would recommend going on YouTube and listening to various excerpts from different recordings, then check Amazon to see if the CD is still available.
Some people love older recordings with big stars in the cast. Some love the sound you get from newer performances. Some like (or hate) a particular director -- it's all over the map.
There are also many sites that review recordings, like this one (see link). Note--that review was from 2004, so there might be a newer version to consider.
Is that I don't actually have a very good ear. They do those "name the singer" bits on the Met matinee opera quiz, and I never even get close, despite having listened to opera my entire life. Maybe that means it doesn't really matter which recording I get.
One tries to read the reviews on Amazon, but, as you say, there's so much subjectivity that it's a mess. You get people giving the same recording 5 stars and 1 star, on the merits!
I just thought I'd see if anyone back here had a favorite: it's sort of a niche and a long-shot. I will check out the reviews, those sites are useful.